Past, Present, Future
MFK Fisher, Mother Of Modern Food Writing
When Mary Frances Kennedy Fisher began writing her first collection of culinary essays, she had just returned from France to the Southern California of h...
This recipe appears in "How To Cook A Wolf", Fisher’s book on surviving wartime rationing, urging Americans to shift their expectations at the table. “Balance the day,” she says, “not each meal in the day.” More than just make-do attitude, she underscores how the scarcity of something can make us truly appreciate it when we taste it, and with that appreciation, make us better people.
This recipe comes from the final chapter “How To Practice True Economy,” wherein she recognizes enough will be enough at some point and we will have to “throw discretion into the laundry bag,” and make one of these indulgent recipes. Or until that day comes, and things like shrimp and butter are readily available again, maybe just remember.
Ingredients
SERVINGS: 6–8 half pints
- 4 pounds fresh shrimp, cooked and shelled
- 1 medium onion, minced
- 1 cup melted butter
- 3 tablespoons lemon juice
- ½ cup mayonnaise
- 2 teaspoons dry mustard
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preparation
Whatever other spice you want (We used ¼ cup fresh minced parsley and 2 tablespoons minced chives, but if you’re keeping for longer than a few days, consider dried spices. We bet a good curry powder would be great.)
Working in batches, grind shrimp and onion in a food processor until a fine, pebbly mix.
(No. Fisher didn’t use a food processor. She calls for mashing shrimp and onion together with a potato masher. If you have that patience and upper body strength, we’re sure sure it will result in a slightly different texture. We could not seem to gather enough of either after the first potato masher bit the dust.)
In a large bowl, mix ground shrimp mixture and melted butter with a wooden spoon until thoroughly incorporated. Beat in lemon juice and mayonnaise; it will become a stiff paste. Add herbs and spices and season to taste. (Fisher says to season highly, as it will be served cold.)
If you’re lucky enough to have a pâté mold, pack it into that. If not, we used half pint mason jars, packing tightly by spoonfuls and pressing out air bubbles. Refrigerate at least 24 hours, and up to one week. Serve with crackers, crostini, or thinly sliced brown bread.
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